The walled medina
Among the best-fortified in Tunisia, with intact 9th-century walls and Bab Diwan gate in daily use. The covered souks sell everything from spices to gold. Less touristy than Tunis or Sousse, more authentically used.
Sahel · Tunisia
Sfax
Tunisia's working second city — fortified medina, olive trade and Kerkennah ferry.
Sfax is Tunisia's economic engine and second-largest city — a place that lives off olive oil, phosphates, and a busy commercial port. Tourism here is real but secondary, which is exactly its charm.
Its medina is among the best fortified in the country, with intact 9th-century walls and a Bab Diwan gate still in daily use. The covered souks sell everything from spices to gold.
From Sfax port, the slow ferry crosses to the Kerkennah Islands — a flat, windswept archipelago of palm groves, lagoons and traditional fish-trap fishing.
What to see in Sfax
Dar Jellouli Museum
A 17th-century Sfaxian mansion turned ethnographic museum — painted ceilings, carved doors, traditional costumes. One of the best small museums in Tunisia.
Kerkennah Islands
1h15 by car ferry from Sfax port. A low, flat archipelago of palm groves, lagoons and traditional charfia fish traps. Slow, off-grid, charming.
Fishing port and Borj Ennar
A working commercial port with a 9th-century watchtower (Borj Ennar) at one corner. Sunset light here is excellent.
Getting there
Sfax-Thyna International Airport (SFA) has limited international service — most visitors arrive by SNCFT train from Tunis (3h15), by louage, or by car on the A1 motorway. Ferries from Sfax port serve Kerkennah.
Where to stay
Limited compared to Tunis or Sousse, but improving. Hôtel Les Oliviers (1930s art deco) and Borj Dhiafa are the top picks. For Kerkennah, stay at Hotel Cercina or one of the new ecolodges on Sidi Frej beach.
Food & culture
Sfaxian cuisine is intensely seasoned — kammounia (cumin stew), chorba aux fruits de mer, and the famous Sfax fish couscous. Try seafood pastilla at Le Corail. Sfaxian olive oil is among the best in Tunisia.
Practical tips
Sfax is a working city — don't expect tourist infrastructure to come to you. Plan ahead. The Kerkennah ferry runs roughly hourly in summer, every 2 hours in winter; book vehicle space online in summer. Saturdays are quieter in the medina.
Frequently asked questions about Sfax
Is Sfax worth visiting?+
Yes — for travellers who want an authentic Tunisian city with no tourist bubble. The medina, museums and Kerkennah ferry justify a 2-night stop.
How do I get to Kerkennah?+
Ferries leave Sfax port roughly hourly in summer. Crossing takes 1h15; book vehicle space ahead in July–August.
Is the Sfax medina dangerous?+
No. It's a working medina with normal urban dynamics — busy by day, quieter by night. Standard precautions apply.